** AGING CIGARS AT-HOME**

Aging is one of the most critical aspects of a cigar's overall body and flavor.
All premium cigars are "aged" for about 6-8 weeks so they can dry properly and
stabilize, which also affects the way they burn and draw. But by letting your new
cigars "age-up" in your humidor, you can actually improve their character and flavor.
Long-term aging under the "ideal 70/70" conditions (70 degrees temp/70% humidity)
will, in many cases, allow the cigars to mellow, which can often help you better
appreciate the "complexity" and nuances of the cigar's particular blend.

Keep in mind, however, that all cigars eventually reach their "peak" and overaging
them will usuually not improve them after a certain point, or in some cases, their
character may actually begin to deteriorate. "Vintage" cigars, whose leaves have
been aged for 3-4 years or more, are expected to be consistant in construction and
flavor, but some additional at-home aging can turn a great cigar into an exquisite
cigar. Remember, too, that you're dealing with a 100% natural product, so if you
feel you've gotten a box that appear to be a little "green" upon lighting up, let
them relax in your humidor for three months and try the cigar again at one month
intervals until you feel it's flavor has improved consistantly.

This Week's Sale!
~G. Korb
Copyright (c) 2002 Famous Smoke Shop-PA, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Back to top

BUYING BUNDLE CIGARS
Part I - Bundles Defined

This week and next, we'll tell the "true Hollywood story" of bundle cigars.
For the uninitiated of you curious about these unbanded cello-wrapped
packages, you probably have your own ideas about what these cigars really
are, where they come from, who smokes them and how they're made, among
others. Actually, if it weren't for bundles, there may not be much of a
cigar business at all. Having first appeared in the 1960s, today bundles
have not only become nice profit centers for retailers, but for customers
seeking good alternatives to their regular cigars, they're mighty practical
and economical.

First, let's clear up the difference between "seconds" and "bundles."
"Seconds" are "ungraded" or "unselected" cigars that didn't meet the
manufacturer's standards as "firsts" due to minor flaws in the wrapper,
the wrapper's color or the overall construction of the cigar itself. That
doesn't mean the cigars are bad, they're just not the "up to snuff" (you'll
pardon the expression). Because these cigars are still high enough in
quality to sell, they're packaged in bundles and sold to retailers at
reduced cost.

"Bundles" are cigars made specifically to sell as "no-name" cigars, but as
mentioned above, they can also be "seconds." Another way cigars get to be
bundled is if a manufacturer has an overrun on a particular size. Bundles
are sometimes identified by the country of origin, like "Nicaraguan Bundles"
or "Honduran Bundles." Sometimes, these bundles are one-time only deals or
in many cases, they are regularly produced to be marketed as bundle labels
complete with their own bands. Good examples of these brands are National
Brand, Andros, Baitoa and La Floridita. Some retailers, like Famous Smoke
Shop contract with manufacturers to create their own exclusive house brand
bundles, such as our Famous "Value Line" cigars and Dominique. In fact, some
of the best cigar makers in the business like U.S. Cigar, General Cigar and
Villazon make bundle cigars so, in actuality, both "firsts" and "seconds"
are sold as bundles.

Since bundles are basically "unmarked," when buying bundles or seconds it's
important that you read the description of the cigars so you know what
you're getting and don't be afraid to ask questions. ;-/
Part 2 - Choosing a Good Bundle
Some things to consider when buying bundles, even if you know they came
from a highly respected cigar maker: 1) The cigars often do not match in color. 2)
The taste may be inconsistent. 3) Some bundles are machine made and some
are made with short filler for what's known as a "sandwich" blend.

Part 2 - Choosing a Good Bundle

When it comes to "inspecting" a bundle cigar, you start with a disadvantage.
Because of the way bundles are packaged, you can't just pick one up and
check it out like you would a boxed cigar. Probably the only thing you can
do is inspect the package to see if the cigars have been bruised, ripped
or squished. So what else CAN you do? Several things.
1. Always try to buy bundles that contain long leaf filler.
2. Check the blends. Chances are if the blend and body is similar to what
you already smoke, you may also enjoy that bundle.
3. Shop by Country: If you like Honduran blends, you may want to go for an
un-banded bundle labeled "Honduran Bundles." The same would go for other
no-name bundles, such as "Nicaraguan Closeouts," "Dominican Seconds,"
etc. Chances are these cigars are over-runs made in some of the best
factories and are usually available in natural and maduro wrappers.
4. Try a "private" blend such as those made specifically for the retailer
or labels the merchant has purchased as an exclusive: We've got some
great ones right here: Dominique, La Floridita, Baitoa, Tabamex, and
our Famous Value Line series, to name a few.
5. Read & Learn: Carefully read the descriptions and the customer comments
about each bundle. Sometimes the copy will indicate the factory or
company who produced the cigars and can often be the deciding factor
in choosing a bundle. Some examples of the latter are National Brand
(Baccarat), El Credito (La Gloria Cubana) and Matacan (Te Amo).
Not unlike finding a good premium cigar, finding a good bundle takes a
certain amount of experimentation. Don't let price fool you, either. Price
can be determined any number of reasons, from the what the retailer paid
for the cigars to just wanting to move merchandise quickly. Though some
bundles may be closer in price to boxed cigars, there are some really
excellent buys at $19.95 and $24.95 a bundle. ;-/

This Week's Sale!
~ G. Korb
Copyright (C) 2002 Famous Smoke Shop - PA, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Back to top

That Was A Great Cuban Cigar! Or Was It?

Unless you really know what to look for, it's hard to tell if the Cuban cigars
you're about to purchase are the genuine article. You could try speaking
Spanish to it but you wouldn't get anywhere. All cigars speak fluent Spanish.
But seriously, if you're in a country where Cuban cigars are available, buy them
in a "legitimate" cigar store, not some tourist trap advertising Cubans in
larger-than-life type. (This is a very popular scam in Tijuana.)

An authentic box of Cubans should have the green and white Havana Seal label,
which reads, "Republica de Cuba. Sello de garantia nacional de procedencia."
("Cuban Government's warranty for cigars exported from Havana"). The box will
also have an oval stamp on the bottom that reads: "HECHO EN CUBA"
("Made in Cuba) with the words "Totalamente a mano" ("Entirely by hand")
underneath, a factory code and the words "Habanos s.a." Cubans made between
1961 and 1989 will only have the HECHO EN CUBA stamp with post-1985 boxes
also featuring the factory code. The Habanos, s.a. stamp didn't appear until 1994.
If you're lucky enough to find a box of pre-Revolutionary Havanas, the stamp will
read "MADE IN HAVANA-CUBA," with the factory name stamped below, a lot
number below that and the word "HABANA" stamped below that. Be wary of a
box that has "Envuelto a mano" on the bottom. This only means "hand-packed."

A good "pre-purchase" solution is to check out Cigar Aficionado's "Counterfeit
Gallery" and familiarize yourself with the "legal" and phony Cuban cigar bands.
Again, there's a good chance you'll hit pay dirt if you buy the cigars in a good
tobacco store, not a trinket shop. You're also more likely to find "legal"
Cubans in Europe and Canada where the demand is much higher.

(Note: Famous Smoke Shop-PA, Inc. does not condone the purchase of
Cuban cigars, genuine or otherwise. They are still illegal in the United States.)
This Week's Sale!
~G. Korb
Copyright (c) 2002 Famous Smoke Shop-PA, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Back to top

THOSE CRAZY CULEBRAS!

If you walk into a cigar store and find yourself staring at what looks
like a chunk of tangled rope in the display case, you're probably looking
at a "Culebra." The unusual physical appearance of this cigar is really
like no other. A Culebra is a 3-in-1 twisted cigar made with freshly rolled
panatelas that are five to seven inches long. Immediately after rolling,
the still-supple cigars are twisted into braids of three which are tied
together at each end to set the culebra's peculiar shape. (In Cuba, after
completion, culebras are usually packaged in tin foil instead of a box.)
Culebras can be smoked two ways: all at once (if you dare!) or separated
and smoked one at a time. These crazy-looking cigars actually originated
in the 19th century cigar factories to keep workers from stealing cigars.
One culebra cigar was given to each employee who would usually unbind it
to smoke separately throughout the day. By doing this the owners would
know which employees were smoking their allotment and which were smoking
the profits. Likewise, if you're going to smoke one of these, you should
unbraid the cigars and smoke them one at a time. On the other hand, it
might be more fun to take one strand and share the remaining two with
some friends.

This Week's Sale!
~G. Korb
Copyright (c) 2002 Famous Smoke Shop-PA, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Back to top

WANT TO KEEP YOUR CIGARS? YOU BETTER HAVE A GOOD "SENSE OF HUMIDOR"
By Gary Korb

Since many of you may have been lucky enough to get a humidor for the
Holidays, I thought I'd share a few pointers with you on the care and
maintenance of your cigars' future home. Remember, you have to be
willing to make the commitment to maintaining a proper environment so your
smokes stay fresh and age properly.
1) The box should have good tight seal. Raise the lid about 3 inches and
let it drop. You should hear a nice "whoosh" sound. That's the sound of
the air escaping, which tells you it's a well-made box.
2) The inside should be lined with high-quality Spanish cedar that will
resist cracking as the wood expands and contracts over time.
3) Prepping the box: Before you place your cigars in your new humidor
you must "charge" the humidifying device with solution (see #6). You can
also dampen a new, unused sponge with distilled water, place it on or in
an open plastic sandwich bag on the bottom of the humidor. Close the lid
and let the box sit for 24 hours to let the cedar absorb the moisture.
Then put in the cigars.
4) Do not keep the box anywhere it may be prone to mold or fungus like
a damp basement. Only if your basement is cool and dry is it permissible
to keep your humidor down there.
5) Never put the box in a room with wide sweeps in temperature or place
the box in a part of the room where it will be in direct sunlight.
6) Check your humidifier at least every two weeks and be sure to
"re-charge" it only with distilled water or a poly-glycol solution
(Griffo, et. Al.) on a regular basis, at least once a month. In the winter
when the air is drier, you may have to do it more often. The same applies
to those of you who live in very dry or desert regions of the country.
7) Check the box every few days and give your cigars the "pinch test" to
see if they're supple. If they're too moist, cut back the humidity. Too
dry, add a little more solution to the humidifier. Once you're convinced
you have attained a consistent balanced environment, you won't need to
check them as often. Also, about every two to four weeks, open the humidor
lid for about 15-30 minutes to let some room air circulate through the box.
8) Temperature & Humidity: 70% humidity and 70 degrees are considered
"ideal" but actually, it's sometimes healthier to keep your cigars in the
range of 65%-68% humidity and 65 degrees temp. Too much of both can
sometimes cause mold and even worse, the hatching of tobacco beetle eggs.
9) Even when calibrated, most common "circular gauge" type hygrometers
have a +/- factor of 4-5%, so if your's is not reading exactly 70% and
you're sure you've done everything according to Hoyle, don't worry.
Finally, if your humidor can't maintain a consistent tropical climate it's
nothing more than a pretty wooden box. ;-/

This Week's Sale!
~G. Korb
Copyright (c) 2002 Famous Smoke Shop-PA, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Back to top

PRIME CUTS

What you use to cut the head of your cigar and how you use it can mean
the difference between a smooth, intact wrapper cap and a soggy shredded
mess of tobacco leaf. Keeping in mind that a sloppy cut can easily ruin a
really fine smoke, the purpose of this article is too illustrate the various
types of cigars cutters, their appropriate use and the pros and cons of
choosing a particular cutter. Here's what you ultimately want to achieve
when cutting a cigar: You want to open the cigar just enough to get an
easy draw with a relatively thick amount of smoke, while leaving the cigar
cap intact. Sometimes, just a little hole made with a toothpick is enough.
But whatever cutter you choose, the blade has got to be sharp! A dull blade
will mangle the cap, which may also cause fraying and unwinding of the
cap spattering bits of filler tobacco all over your tongue. (Not a pretty picture, folks.)

The "punch" cutter is ideal in several respects. It gives you a wide enough
hole to get a good clean draw and leaves the round outer rim of the cap intact.
The key here is to buy a good quality punch that has a very sharp blade
(some manufacturers sell replacement blades). It's also one of the simplest
cutters to use. Just place it against the head of the cigar and twist gently.
As you twist the cutter out, you should get a nice clean recessed hole about 1/4"
in diameter. These are great for wide-body cigars like, Toros, Churchills and Robustos.
The only drawbacks to using this cutter is that if the cigar is dry, the pressure of
twisting the cutter, even gentle twisting, can crack the head of the cigar. They don't
do well on slim cigars like Panatelas or small cigars due to the narrow ring sizes
and you can't use a punch at all on a Pyramid because of the pointed head. Suffice it to say,
Punch cutters are great "starting pitchers," but you should also have a straight cutter
standing by in the bull pen.

The "V" cutter is a very cool tool both in concept and practicality. When used properly, like a
punch cutter it will also give you a nice clean cut while preserving the round edge of the wrapper cap.
The "V" cut forms a straight, 1/8" wide, wedge-shaped slice that goes into the body of the cigar at a
depth of about a 1/4 inch. This deeper cut opens more surface area of the filler creating a bigger and
more "luxurious" draw. What's nice about this type of cutter is there's no guesswork involved. You just
place the cigar against the indentation on the cutter and press the lever. Voila! If you use a "V" cutter
on a narrow ring cigar it will slice across the entire cap from edge to edge. On a large ring cigar, it will
cut a nice neat slice in the middle of the head preserving the round outer rim of the cap. If the blade is
really sharp, the cap should stay intact regardless of ring gauge. The "V" cut is especially good to use
on figurados like Pyramids and Torpedos because it slits open the head without chopping off too much
of the point. The main thing with the "V" cutter is, you have be sure to buy one that's really sharp, not
only to get the cleanest cut possible, but because of it's design, you can't sharpen or usually replace
a "V" cutter blade.

The straight or "guillotine" cutter is by far the most popular among cigar smokers. It's not only the easiest
to use, but with some practice you can precisely control the depth of the cut to your liking. Practically all
guillotine cutters feature a large hole, a single or double blade and will cut just about every cigar shape.
The key here is, if you have a preference for very large ring cigars, be sure to buy a cutter with a hole that
will handle ring sizes over 50. Most guillotine cutters will only cut up to a 48 or 50 ring cigar, while others
can cut up to a 54 ring. The key to using the guillotine is to be sure the cut runs perpendicular to the cap,
not at an angle. More importantly, you want to cut off the least amount of the cap as possible; just enough
to open up the end of the cigar. Try not to cut of more than an 1/8 of an inch, the thickness of most caps.
Since the cap often tends to fall off naturally, this depth is perfectly acceptable. If your cutter is really sharp
you should be able to cut off just enough to expose the filler without mangling or chopping off the cap entirely.
Double blade cutters tend to cut cleaner than single blade cutters. The reason is that, as it slices, instead of
the blade pushing the head of the cigar against the edge of the cutter hole, the head of the cigar is pushed
against an opposing blade.

Cigar scissors are another good way of getting a clean, straight cut. The best thing about them is the size
of the cigar is no object. Because they tend to be long and odd shaped, scissors are not as "portable" as
guillotine cutters, but some manufacturers do make pocket-size cigar scissors. Blade sharpness is especially
important with scissors because they're harder to steady than other cutters. But if you have a steady hand and
know how to use a file to sharpen the blades when they become dull, cigar scissors are an excellent way to go.

In terms of dollars, don't be too frugal when buying a cutter. Sure, those "free" cutters you get with cigars
sometimes are at most, adequate, but if you're willing to spend a little more, a high-quality cutter will easily
pay for itself over time. What you want to look for is sharpness (some models claim to be "self-sharpening"),
solid construction, smoothness of action, and particularly in the case of double blade cutters, virtually no play
or gap between the blades.

Finally, like everything else in the cigar world, personal preference takes priority. Just be sure you're
comfortable with the cutter you choose and that it consistently cuts the way you like. Try to have several
different cutters on-hand, too, for variety as well as for "back-up." Finding a cutter you like is not that much
different from finding a cigar you like. After all, they go hand-in-hand.

This Week's Sale!
~G. Korb
Copyright (c) 2002 Famous Smoke Shop-PA, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Back to top

RATING CIGARS (Or, HOW TO BE A GOOD JUDGE OF "CHARACTER")

Say, what's the deal with those cigar ratings you read in magazines like
*Cigar Aficionado*, *Smoke* and others? How do their "judges" determine
whether a cigar is a "70" or a "90?" As subjective as rating cigars may
be, especially when it comes to taste, they all use pretty much the same
criteria. Here are some guidelines to help you determine whether you would
buy a box of a given cigar or whether it would be better used as
fertilizer. When rating cigars there are the 5 primary categories to take
into consideration:
1. Overall appearance: (consistency of wrapper color, uniformity of the
wrapping, oiliness and/or sheen of the wrapper leaf)
2. Draw: (how easy or difficult is it to draw smoke through the cigar)
3. Burn rate: (too slow, too fast, uneven)
4. Construction: (too loose, too tight, wrapper unwraps during smoking)
5. Taste: (smooth, bitter, creamy, light, powerful) At what point did these
"tastes" present themselves: 1/3, 1/2, 3/4 or throughout the entire smoke.
For instance: The cigar may have started out with a light pleasant taste but
turned bitter halfway through smoking. The "complexity" of a cigar would
also be part of the Taste criteria. Some cigars have a rich, complex taste
from start to finish, others build in complexity as they smoke. "Finish"
is another. This is determined by the flavors left on the palate after
taking a puff. Lighter cigars tend to have very little finish, whereas
maduros and cigars made with stronger-tasting fillers have a very distinct
finish. These last two factors have more to do with the sensitivity of
your taste buds than anything else. Concentrate on the main 5 primary
criteria and eventually you'll become a very good judge of character! :-)

This Week's Sale!
~G. Korb
Copyright (c) 2002 Famous Smoke Shop-PA, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Back to top

GIRTH OF A NATION
Facts & Figures On Cigar Ring Gauges and Styles

If someone asks you. "What's the ring gauge of your favorite cigar?" most of you
reading this probably know the answer. But some of you may not know. If your answer
is, "I like coronas," then what you're saying is you like a cigar with a length of
about 5 1/2 inches and a 42 gauge ring. We get often get questions from customers
about styles and ring size, so here's the deal.

The ring gauge goes hand-in-hand with the length of the cigar, comprising its overall
size, style and/or name. Cuba produces 69 different cigar sizes, many of which
correspond to the name given to them by a particular factory like "Prominante" or
"Julieta 2" a/k/a "Double Corona" and "Churchill," respectively. Partagas has over
39 sizes, but Cohiba and Montecristo offer a more modest 11 sizes. Brands produced
outside of Cuba also offer a more limited number of styles, too. During the recent
cigar boom some manufacturers responded to demand for "figurado" styles like Pyramids,
Belicosos and Perfectos by adding them to their lines, but these styles aren't really
new at all. Some say there is no such thing as a true "standard size" for cigars, but
there is consistency among the most popular styles/sizes, and I've listed below the
"standard" or most common styles/sizes featured among many of the brands we sell at
Famous Smoke Shop.

"Classic" Cigar Styles (Standard length in inches X ring gauge)
Churchill (7" x 50)
Corona (5 1/2" x 42)
Double Corona (6 3/4" x 49)
Londsdale (6 1/2" x 44)
Panatela (6 1/2" x 34)
Petite Corona (5" x 38)
Robusto (5" x 50)
Rothschild (4 1/2" x 48)
Toro (6" x 50)

Popular Styles By Range:
Belicoso: 6" - 6 1/2" x 48-54
Petite Belicoso: 5" - 5 1/4" x 40-42
Churchill: 6 1/2" - 8" x 47-49
Corona: 5 1/4" - 5 3/4" x 42-44
Double Corona: 6 3/4" - 8" x 49-52
Gigante, Presidente, Immensa: 8" - 10" x 52-64
Londsdale: 6" - 7" x 42-44
Panatela: 6" - 7" x 34-39
Petite Corona: 4 3/4" - 5" x 38-42
Robusto: 5" - 5 3/4" x 48-52
Rothschild: 4 1/2" 5" x 48-50
Toro: 6" - 6 1/2" x 50-54

Ring gauge and length may vary slightly by manufacturer but these are pretty much
"within range" figures for the above styles. Now, about that ring gauge. A "ring" is
defined mathematically as 1/64th of an inch. So if a cigar has a 36 ring gauge it
would be a 1/2 inch in diameter. A 48 ring gauge would be closer to 3/4 of an inch.
The larger the ring, the more flavor the cigar will deliver because more leaf can be
packed into it, Large ring cigars tend to smoke "cooler" too. There are a handful of
cigar styles on the U.S. market with 52-54 and larger ring gauges, whereas the Cuban
Casa Blanca Jeroboam and Half Jeroboam sport a 1-inch-plus 66 ring gauge. The Davidoff
store in London has a real topper on display: a 3 foot-long cigar with a whopping
96 gauge ring! Hey, I don't even want to touch that one!! And if that isn't enough
for Ripley, believe it or not,the world's smallest cigar was the Bolivar Delgado,
coming in at just under 1 1/2 inches!

Whatever style cigar they prefer, most cigar smokers are very loyal to that style,
so the style of preference is usually an acquired taste that comes with
experimentation over time. Eventually, you'll find, or have already found the style
and size that best suits your tastes, whatever name the manufacturer has given it.

This Week's Sale!
~G. Korb
Copyright (c) 2002 Famous Smoke Shop-PA, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Back to top

"STRONG" VS. "FULL-BODIED"

Confused by the words "strong" and "strength" in describing a cigar?
This is really a semantic argument but the term "strong" tends to
indicate (in some aficionado circles), the cigar is harsh and
undesirable. It also gets confused with a cigar that may be more
accurately described as "full-bodied" or "full-flavored" in terms of
it's strength. Saying a cigar is "too strong" could indicate that it
is too full-bodied or it could also mean it's just plain lousy.
From a cigar etiquette point-of-view, never tell a cigar maker their
cigar was too strong, just say it was too "full-bodied" for your taste.
A cigar may be harsh or strong for a couple of reasons: The nicotine
and tar content is high, the tobacco is of poor quality, or in the case
of a cigar that is made with good quality leaf, the tobacco wasn't
properly aged. Young tobacco is particularly high in nicotine and other
compounds that really kill the taste of a cigar. It's also one of the
reasons it helps to age cigars in your humidor for a few weeks to mellow.
As cigars age, the nicotine and other compounds either disappear entirely
or fall off to more acceptable levels. There are some excellent
"full-bodied" cigars that are exceptionally smooth in character. Some
that come to mind are the La Gloria Cubana Serie "R", Partagas Black
Label, C.A.O. eXtreme, Avo Maduro and El Rico Habano, but to the
inexperienced smoker may taste very "strong." A well-made, full-bodied
cigar should have a full, rich flavor very smooth from start to finish
and should never harsh or bitter. Once you've been smoking cigars long
enough you WILL learn the differences between "full-bodied" and
"full-flavored" and remove the word "strong" from your vocabulary.

This Week's Sale!
~G. Korb
Copyright (c) 2002 Famous Smoke Shop-PA, Inc. All Rights Reserved. .
Back to top

A MATTER OF TASTE

What about those cigar taste descriptions that mention "hints of nuts
and coffee," "notes of wood," "leather," "nutmeg," "cocoa and coffee
bean," etc.? Do these flavors really exist? A lot of this is all very
subjective and even more dependent on the sensitivity of your taste buds.
It's much easier to state if a cigar is "spicy" or "mild" or even
"creamy" because these are more general terms. It all comes down to two
things that allow you to experience the "taste" of a cigar: your tongue
and your sinuses. These organs are designed to tell you if a cigar is
peppery, spicy, salty, sweet. etc. While your tongue provides the basic
taste readings, it's the sinuses that deliver the more subtle variations
in flavor. If you can blow the smoke through your nose without inhaling
you will really get a nice read on the cigar, but this takes a little
practice (cigarette smokers are good at this). Actually, the best time
to taste anything - coffee, cigars, even wine - is in the morning when
your taste buds are wide awake and you haven't had anything to eat or
drink in the past eight hours. But you don't have to light up that double
corona at 7:00 AM to appreciate its finer qualities. The best time to
light up is when you have the chance to kick back and really enjoy it,
like after dinner or at a cigar-friendly club. It also helps if you keep
the cigar indoors. Wind can affect the burn and may also diminish the
true taste of the cigar. I have found many cigars that do have a "nutty"
or "woody" taste, as described, and others that were way off the mark. In
the end, the ability to appreciate the taste of a fine cigar really comes
down to your particular biochemistry and maybe even more importantly, the
experience of smoking many different cigars over time.

This Week's Sale!
~G. Korb
Copyright (c) 2002 Famous Smoke Shop-PA, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Back to top

PARADISE FOUND (Searching For The "Perfect" Cigar)

Part 1 - Types Of Cigars
As you read this multi-part article on finding the perfect cigar, it's
very important that you to keep the following in focus - especially
those of you new to cigars: According to Richard Carleton Hacker,
author of *The Ultimate Cigar Book*, some of the best cigars are not the
most expensive. It doesn't cost a manufacturer any more to make an
excellent cigar than it does to make an average cigar. The real key is how
the tobacco is prepared, constructed and aged. With that caveat in mind,
let's begin:
"Premium" cigars are by far the most popular among cigar smokers and can
be either "machine bunched" or "handmade." What's the dif? Machine-bunched
premiums are only rolled by hand, hence the term, "hand rolled," whereas
"handmade" cigars are literally constructed entirely by hand. Most of the
best handmade cigars in the world come from the Dominican Republic, Honduras,
and Nicaragua, not necessarily Cuba as you might expect.
Another variety of "premium" cigar is what is sometimes referred to as
the "super-premium." (Usually super-priced, too). These cigars are genuinely
a cut-above the average premium because they are made with specially selected
tobaccos and higher grade wrappers (the most expensive part of the cigar).
Super premiums also tend to have been aged longer which enhances the taste
and complexity of the cigar. Brands which are touted as super-premiums
include such labels as Cohiba (Red Dot), Avo, Montecristo, Davidoff, Punch
Gran Cru Reserva, Partagas Black Label, Fuente Don Carlos and Don Tomas
Dominican Selection.
Next you have your "vintage" cigars, which you could also say is a variety
of the super-premium. These cigars are usually (but not always) aged even
longer than super-premiums, but most importantly, the components are made
from all or a portion of a tobacco crop that had an unusually "good" year,
not unlike a vintage wine. How does the cigar maker know it was a vintage
year? He can tell by the kind of growing season he had based on past seasons
and how the tobacco matures in the drying barn. A good example of this is
the Macanudo Vintage which comes in 1988 and 1993 "vintages." It's also
important to know that these are the years the tobacco was harvested, NOT
the years the cigars were made. Dunhill Aged, Romeo Y Julieta Vintage and
Ashton Cabinet are other good examples of true vintage cigars.
There is some gray area as to where premium, super-premium and vintage
cigars overlap, but the good news is that if you read the descriptions of
the cigars in our catalog and online, you can find one or all three of
these varieties in your price range.
Back to top

Part 2- Cigar Shapes
This week we look at the wide variety of cigar styles from which to choose.
The most important thing to remember here is that the size and length of a
cigar have a significant effect on its taste - even within the same brand!
One thing I've learned since I began working here at Famous is that,
generally speaking, smokers are much more loyal to shape than they are to
brand. It's a cigar smoker's nature to want to try different brands. So the
best advice I can give you is, smoke the shape you like. But how do you find
the shape you like? The answer is simple. Experiment!

First, don't choose a cigar shape because you think it makes you look cool.
Only guys like Clint Eastwood can get away with that. Speaking of celebrities,
you might notice that cigar smokers like Milton Berle, Groucho Marx, Bill
Cosby, et. Al, are usually shown holding big cigars. It's not because these
cigars are funny. The truth is, the larger sizes like Churchills, Toros, and
Robustos have the fullest flavor, because they have the most leaf content.
Many cigar smokers, like myself, start out by smoking the smaller and
slimmer sizes like Panatelas and Petite Coronas. Then, as they become more
experienced and begin to desire more flavor, they move to wider and longer
cigars. Another thing is that some cigars are better for some occasions
while other cigars are better for other occasions - even different seasons.
You might prefer one type of cigar in the winter and another in the summer.
In other words, it's OK to switch tastes. A true cigar aficionado's humidor
will usually have a variety of brands a well as a variety of styles.

So how does it work? Cigars are listed by length x ring. A "ring" is defined
as 1/64 of an inch, the width of a typical tobacco leaf. So, a cigar that
is 5 x 32 would be 5 inches long and 1/2" in diameter. Excluding "figurados"
(odd shaped cigars like Pyramids) and small cigars, here are the most common
cigar styles and their "classic" measurements. (Note that depending on brand,
these numbers may shift plus or minus a number or two.)
Rothschild - 4 1/2" x 50
Robusto - 5" x 50
Petite Corona - 5 x 38
Corona - 5 1/2" x 42
Londsdale - 6 1/2" x 44
Toro - 6" x 50
Panatela - 7" x 34
Churchill - 7" x 49

For any given brand/blend, here's how size will affect the taste: The bigger
the ring, the fuller the flavor. The longer the cigar, the cooler the smoke.
If you find a cigar too rich in flavor, don't blame it on the blend; try it
in a smaller ring. Because less leaf is used it will have less flavor, even
though the blend is identical. But that doesn't mean it won't be tasty.
Perhaps the best size to start with would be a Lonsdale. It's long enough to
smoke cool and wide enough to deliver the cigar's flavors without overpowering
you. Once again, experimentation is the key. And remember, as you try different
cigars, puff on them slowly to avoid them from smoking hot and to ensure
you get the most flavor.

Part 3 - Wrappers
In the third leg of our journey we'll start getting down to the "nitty-
gritty" and find out what really makes a cigar tick. Let's begin with the
most obvious part of the cigar - the wrapper. The wrapper not only
contributes greatly to the overall "character" or "taste" of the cigar,
it's the most carefully tended-to leaf in the blend and the most expensive
part of cigar. If you haven't noticed by now, wrappers come in a variety of
hues, each with it's own distinctive flavor. Generally speaking, the lighter
the wrapper color, the milder the taste. The more sun the wrapper is exposed
to, the darker and richer in flavor the wrapper leaf will be. So a "sun-
grown" wrapper will be richer in taste and several shades darker than a
"Connecticut Shade" wrapper. "Shade" refers to the leaf being grown under
a "tapado" or tent, not the hue of the leaf. Some manufacturers grow
wrappers specifically for certain cigars and give them their own special
names like, "Habana 2000," "Capa Royale," "La Vega Especiale," etc.
For the purpose of this article we'll examine the most commonly known
wrappers going from the lightest to the darkest:
"Double Claro" - Very light green, also referred to as "Jade," "Candella"
and "AMS" (American Market Selection) because at one time this shade was
most favored by Americans.
"Claro" - Light, greenish or yellowish-brown
"Colorado Claro" - Light brown a/k/a "Connecticut Shade"
"Colorado" - Medium brown, also called "EMS" (English Market Selection)
because this particular color and strength appealed to smokers in Great
Britain. This shade may also be referred to as "Cameroon" as well as
"Natural."

"Colorado Maduro" - Milk chocolate brown, often grown in Ecuador with
Connecticut seed but still referred to as "Connecticut Shade," "Natural,"
as well as "Ecuadoran."
"Maduro" - Dark coffee brown, cultivated from "Connecticut Broadleaf."
"Oscuro" - a/k/a "Double Maduro" blackish brown also a "Broadleaf" and
the most intense in flavor of wrapper leaves.
Note that despite their classification, wrapper leaves will vary in color
due to how they are fermented and the leaf structure itself. Connecticut
shade "Natural" wrappers tend to be silkier and smoother to the touch as
well as milder in taste, whereas Connecticut "Broadleaf" Maduro wrappers
are "toothier" - a little rougher to the touch - although some of the best
maduro wrappers could also be described as "velvety." They're also richer
in flavor, sometimes being referred to as "sweet-tasting," but not in a
sugary sweet way.
A good premium box of cigars will be sorted by color so that all of the
cigar are consistent in shade. Wrappers that are not the desired color
are separated and usually used for "seconds" or bundled cigars. Another
term for these wrappers is "ungraded." That's why if you're not too picky
about the color of the wrapper, you can get some very good tasting bundles
while saving yourself a bundle!


Part 4 - Blends
In this fourth chapter toward our quest for the perfect cigar, we'll look at
how cigar blends and their characteristics differ by country.

Let's start with good, old reliable CUBA: What's unique about Cuban cigars
is that every part of the cigar comes from Cuba (a.k.a. "puro"), but not
necessarily the same part of the island. For centuries the Cubans have
experimented growing tobacco in various regions of the country and as a
result became the world's best tobacco growers. The most prized Cuban
wrapper leaf comes from the Pinar del Rio and Vuelta Abajo regions in the
far western region of the country. Although some filler leaf is also grown
there, most Cuban filler comes from the Vuelta Arriba in the eastern region.
Cuba is also lucky to have one of the most ideal climates for producing
lush crops and thick leaves that are rich in aroma and body. Contrary
to what used to be popular belief, not all Cuban cigars are strong. Like
other blends, they range from very mellow to mighty powerful.

The DOMINICAN REPUBLIC, where many expatriate cigar makers went after the
Cuban Revolution is generally known for more mild-to-medium-bodied cigars.
Now the world's leading producer of filler tobacco, the DR offers a very
similar climate and soil conditions to Cuba, which is why they can
cultivate some really exceptional leaf. The Cibao Valley is known for two
primary filler tobaccos, Piloto Cubano and Olor, both very close to Cuban
leaf in quality and character, but slightly different in taste due to the
soil. As good as the DR is for producing great filler and binder, you will
generally find Dominican cigars wrapped in leaves grown in other countries.
(So far, only Fuente has been able to cultivate an exceptional Dominican
wrapper leaf, which can be found on the elusive Opus X.)

HONDURAS has a rep for producing very rich tasting, full-bodied cigars.
The reason for this is its Central American climate is a little hotter and
drier than the DR and Cuba, but because one coast is on the Caribbean it
has a tropical climate that's very similar to Cuba's. So similar, in fact,
that in 1959 many expatriate Cuban cigar makers chose Honduras to plant
their Cuban seeds, eventually producing some of the world's best filler
and new homes for renowned full-bodied cigars like Punch and Hoyo De
Monterrey. And because Honduras also imports leaf from other nations, you
will often find blends that have a Cuban-like richness with a mellow taste.

NICARAGUAN leaf is spicy, earthy and full-bodied like Honduran tobacco
primarily because the two countries border each other. During the 1970's
Nicaraguan cigars were at their peak. But when civil war erupted between the
"Sandinistas" and the "Contras" in the 1980s, factories shut down as cigar
makers fled the country. Since then, Nicaragua has recovered remarkably with
the return of Joya de Nicaragua, the distinguished Padron label and others
now thriving there. Moreover, some of the tastiest cigars made outside
Nicaragua use the rich Nicaraguan leaf to add power to their blends.

The best MEXICAN tobacco is grown in Veracruz's famed San Andrés Valley
where the climate is a little more moderate and the runoff of rainfall
from the mountains flows into the valley. Mexican cigars are often snubbed
by "aficionados," but ironically, the drier soil conditions and hot Mexican
sun actually produce rich and often very smooth-tasting filler and binder
tobaccos used to spice up the blends of some of the world's finest premiums.

So there you have it. The next time you light up that Dominican, Honduran
or "what-have-you" blended cigar, pay close attention to the taste. Since
individual tastes vary, not to mention taste buds, we're talking about
subjectivity, but generally speaking, you will find the characteristics
described above in there.

Part 5 - Final Inspection
Your perfect cigar now awaits you with anticipation. But before you snatch
it up and light it, there are a few additional details to cover that have to do
with the cigar's physical appearance and general condition.

1. Look closely at the wrapper. Since we're concerned only with
premium cigars for the purposes of this series, the wrapper should look
like it was rolled smoothly and be evenly colored from head to foot. If the
wrapper has tiny tan colored "sun spots," they are harmless and will not
affect the taste of the cigar. The wrapper should have a slight coarseness
to it and you should be able to see the veins in the leaf. Any notion that
veiny wrappers are bad is nullified by the fact that the veins contribute
to the character and flavor of the cigar, even if they may not be all
that pretty.

(The veins in a good Connecticut Shade wrapper are usually faint in
appearance, whereas Cameroon wrappers have very distinct veins and
Sumatra wrappers actually have a "y" or "t" shape pattern to them.
Whatever the leaf, the veins should be parallel to each other and
run almost the entire length of the cigar. This tells you the cigar
was rolled well and it will burn evenly. If the wrapper is starting
to unravel, it's usually a sign the cigar was either poorly wrapped
or may be drying out.)

2. Gently feel or "pinch" the cigar along its length for hard or soft
spots that may indicate poor bunching of the filler. These spots can cause
the cigar to burn unevenly or make it draw too tight. Check the "weight"
or "heft" of the cigar, too. If it feels light it's probably wrapped a
little more loosely but will draw more easily. If it feels more solid,
it's probably wrapped a bit tighter. Tight or loose is a personal
preference, but in either case, you don't want too much of one or the other.

3. Check the foot of the cigar. The filler should appear in a curvy
pattern, meaning it was rolled properly. If it appears in straight lines,
the filler was probably "booked." Booking is a technique where the filler
leaves are folded in half like pages of a book. This method is less
desirable because it can impede the true flavor of the cigar, cause it
to burn along one side, or both. If you happen to notice a very dark
center in the filler, that is usually thicker and often richer-tasting
Ligero leaf, which also helps the cigar maintain a solid ash.

4. Check the ash. If the cigar was filled and rolled properly the cigar
should have good firm ash. How white the ash is, is secondary. The color
of the ash is determined primarily by the mineral content (magnesium,
in particular) of the soil in which the leaf was grown. Ash that burns
very dark gray to black has very low magnesium content and can often
taste bitter. It can also be a sign the cigar is under-aged. A cigar
with solid gray to white ash usually will smoke sweeter and smoother.

So now you know everything about telling the good cigars from the not-
so-good cigars. Of course, when you're in a cigar store, you have a little
more control over some of these factors. But if you carefully read the blends
of the cigars, where they're made and who made them, you can usually put
your faith in a box or even a 5-pack sampler, especially if you order
online or by mail. The more reputable vendors, and this is especially true
at Famous Smoke Shop, will refund your money or exchange an unsatisfactory
box no questions asked. I've yet to smoke a box of any brand in which every
cigar was perfect, but that just goes with the territory of buying naturally-
grown products that are made by hand. The only thing I can add to all this
is, SAMPLE first before you commit to a new brand. ?

This Week's Sale!
~G. Korb
Copyright (c) 2002 Famous Smoke Shop-PA, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Back to top

***LOOSE LEAF & BINDER DEPT.***

A Primer on Cigar Tobacco Leaves

When you read the descriptions for many of the cigars found here at Famous
Smoke Shop, words like "ligero" and "seco" often pop-up when referring to the
leaves used in the blend. But unless you know what these leaves really are
and how they affect the blend and taste of a cigar, they're completely
meaningless. So get ready to impress your friends because here's the 411 on
cigar tobacco leaves.

Let's start with the tobacco plant, itself. From a tobacco grower's perspective,
the plants consist of three parts: the top (corona), the middle and the bottom.
Each plays a specific role in the making of cigars. Wrapper leaf is one of
the most crucial elements to a good cigar. Plants called "Corojos" are grown
specifically for premium cigar wrappers under huge sheets of gauze, hence
the term, "shade grown." The idea behind shade growing is to prevent the
leaves from becoming too thick and veiny, which otherwise is Mother Nature's
way of protecting the leaf from the harsh sun. Shade grown wrappers are
classified by color as "ligero" (light), "seco" (dry), "visio" (glossy),
"amarillo" (yellow), "medio tiempo" (half texture) and "cuadrado" (broken).
Sun grown filler leaves are also given similar names, not just by color
but by strength:

Ligero - Top of the plant. The darkest and strongest in flavor. Ligero is
matured for at least two years before being used in the cigar and is always
placed in the middle of the cigar because it burns slowly. The more ligero
used the more full-bodied the cigar will taste. for example, La Gloria
Cubana Serie R.
Seco - Middle of the plant. Much lighter in color and flavor and usually
matured for about 18 months. The more seco used the lighter in flavor the
cigar will be, like Macanudo, for example.
Volado - Bottom of the plant: Matured for nine months before use, these
leaves have little or no flavor. They are used mainly for their good burning
qualities and adding bulk to the cigar.

The key to a good wrapper leaf or "capa," is it's elasticity and absence
of veins. Wrapper leaves are usually matured from one year to 18 months,
but the longer they're aged the smoother they taste. Wrappers are also the
most expensive part of the cigar and come in a variety of "shades" from
practically every corner of the world. Country of origin as well as the "seed"
from which the wrapper leaf is grown also plays a key role in the flavor, aroma
and strength of the wrapper. Below are the characteristics of some of the
more common wrappers you'll find on most premiums.
Connecticut shade Natural - Golden brown, mild flavor
Connecticut broadleaf Maduro - very dark brown or black, spicy-sweet flavor
Cameroon - Dark brown, spicy flavor
Claro - very light tan and milder flavor

The real art to making cigars comes from knowing how to blend the leaves
in such way as to achieve the desired strength and flavor of the cigar.
Moreover, the quality of the crop, aging process and experimentation with
different combinations of leaf are equally important, which is why it takes
years to develop a really fine cigar.

So now that you