Relighting a cigar can be a tricky business. One technique is to clear the entire foot of all ash by gently
rubbing and/or tapping it on the ashtray. You then re-toast the cigar to get the wrapper going. Relight the
cigar by puffing, then blowing OUT through the cigar, which is supposed to clear the foot of tar and resins
left from the previous light. The downside of this technique is that sometimes you blow out sparks, turning
your cigar into a Roman candle.
I've tried this in the past with some success, but I stumbled upon what I think is a better way to go. Cut
the foot of the cigar about 1/4 to 1/2-inch back. This leaves you with mostly "fresh" tobacco. However, you
may often find the tobacco in the center a little scorched or blackened depending on how deep you cut it back,
but it will help keep the cigar from tasting bitter.
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How does ring gauge and length affect the taste of the cigar?
Although the ring gauge will significantly affect a cigar's flavor
and fullness, length doesn't often have much to do with it. A longer
cigar does tend to smoke a little "cooler." But if you're
a "hot" smoker and puff too much (a habit often carried
over by cigarette smokers or the inexperienced), the cigar will smoke
hotter at any length and it may even taste bitter, too. If you draw
slowly on the cigar and allow it to rest about a minute between puffs,
most any length will smoke cool and taste much better, particularly
with a well-made cigar. So, slow down and cool it!
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How do you "revive" dry cigars kept in a cigar box?
If you keep your cigars in their boxes and they are beginning to dry
out, here's a really good way to revive them. Keep in mind that if
cigars are very dry they will be difficult to revive satisfactorily.
The key here is, if moisture can escape from a cigar, it can also
be replaced. One of the simplest methods is to place the entire box
inside a plastic bag. Be sure the bag is not completely closed because
you have to have a little air flow in there. It helps to place a sponge
dampened with distilled water or 50/50 solution in the bag, too. The
idea here is to allow slow absorption of moisture, preventing the
cigars from getting too much humidity too soon. If you shock the cigars
by adding too much moisture at once they can actually burst - the
last thing you want to do to pricey primos. This can take several
weeks to over a month, so be patient. Rotate the cigars every few
days bringing them from the bottom of the box to the top. Keep this
up continuously and in about three to four weeks you should be able
to enjoy the fruits of your labor.
If you don't have a cigar box, you can use a sealable plastic container.
Put the dry cigars in the container and seal it for the first two
days. This will trap any moisture still left in the cigars. On the
third day, add the piece of dampened sponge, but here again, you run
the risk of bursting, so be sure not to over-saturate the sponge and
to keep the lid propped open in one corner to allow air flow.
When cigars lose a certain amount of moisture, they also lose much
of their bouquet and will probably not taste as good as a well-kept
cigar. The key to all of this is (whether you're reviving cigars in
their original box or in a humidor) cigars lose moisture slowly, therefore,
they need to regain it slowly. Once again, be patient and never resort
to drastic measures to revive your cigars or you'll ruin them permanently.
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Why do some cigars unravel?
This is really a pretty common problem among all cigars except it
should happen less with better premiums. Wrappers usually peel for
two reasons: Either they were not properly wrapped at the factory
in the first place, or the cigar has become dry. In the latter case,
the wrapper may not have enough elasticity to cling to the binder.
Be careful when you clip the cigar, too. If the wrapper is peeling
at the head you can often repair it by just moistening it with your
tongue. If the wrapper starts peeling from the lit end, or continues
to do so even after you moisten it, you can trash it or remove the
wrapper. But smoking a peeling wrapper can get pretty messy and since
the wrapper contributes so much to the flavor of the cigar, smoking
a cigar without it is not just unattractive, it's just plain yucky.
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How do you calibrate a hygrometer?
Most analog hygrometers are manufactured with a tolerance of +/- 4-5%
(or more) of humidity within the range of 40-80%. Although humidity
gauges are supposedly pre-set at the factory, it's not unusual to
find the calibration off once you get the unit home and placed in
your humidor. If you want to see how accurate your hygrometer is,
there is a simple, easy-to-do method you can use with items found
right in your kitchen. All you need is some table salt, a sealed container
(Tupperware™ type or ZipLock™ bag) and a plastic bottle
cap.
- Place a teaspoon of salt in the bottle cap and add a few drops
of tap or distilled water to moisten it. Don't overdo it. You don't
want to dissolve the salt. Add only enough water to dampen the salt.
When water is added to common table salt, it will maintain an exact
75% humidity in a perfectly sealed environment.
- Carefully place the salt and your hygrometer into the airtight
container. (Try not to get any moistened salt on the gauge.) Check
the unit to assure its current reading is somewhere in the 40% to
80% range.
- Seal the container tightly but don't try to remove any remaining
air trapped inside. Now, wait for at least several hours until the
environment has stabilized (this could take up to 6 hrs.). Do not
open the container. Read the gauge's humidity % level. It should be
exactly 75%. If it is not, note the deviation as being the amount
your hygrometer is out of calibration. If for example, it reads 65%,
the gauge is 10% low. If it reads 80%, the gauge is 5% high.
- Carefully remove the unit from the container/bag. Assuming your
hygrometer has a calibrating screw on the back (most better ones do)
take a very small flathead screwdriver and turn it slowly while watching
the dial on the front. If your gauge was low by 10%, turn the screwdriver
so the dial is set 10 percentage points higher than it was previously.
Conversely, if your gauge was high by 5%, turn the screw in the opposite
direction to set the dial 5 percentage points lower.
Your gauge should now be properly calibrated, which will help you
maintain a healthier overall environment for your cigars. If the gauge
does not appear to be moving, try blowing warm, moist air into the
back of it. One other thing you can do, which is also another way
to test the unit, is by wrapping the hygrometer in a warm, damp paper
towel for about 30 minutes or until it reads about 80-90% +/- a few
points.
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How important is having a humidor, really?
Unless you are quickly collecting a lot of cigars or want to "home
age" your cigars, it is not necessary to buy a humidor. For the
short run, you can purchase a common sealable plastic food container
and a Dry-Mistat™ stick or similar humidifying device and place
the cigars in there. If monitored properly, they will last almost
indefinitely. But if you decide to go this route, keep a corner of
the container opened a crack to allow air flow and prevent too much
moisture from building up, which may cause mold. One drawback is your
cigars may not have that distinctive cedar wood fragrance you get
from a good quality humidor. But that can be remedied by taking a
cedar "spacer" from a cigar box and adding it to the container,
or lining the bottom of the container with a row of spacers.
Of course, there's nothing like being the proud owner of a well-made,
wooden humidor where your cigars can nestle in the climate-controlled
comfort of its Spanish cedar lining, but it's nice to know there is
a low-budget alternative.
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What are "box-pressed" cigars?
"Box-pressed" or "square-pressed" is when the
cigars are literally "pressed" into the box so the box pressure
creates a perfectly square shape. This was done originally to save
shipping space and as a result, the process supposedly causes the
cigars to burn longer, giving the smoker a more flavorful smoke. Good
examples of box-pressed cigars include, Aspira, Don Tomas Dominican
Selection, Padron Anniversary, Perdomo La Tradición, and Sancho
Panza, to name a few.
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How can you tell if a cigar is fresh?
Cigar wrappers that have a rich, oily sheen show that the cigar has
been properly humidified and the leaf is very high quality. But even
dull-looking wrappers can be of good quality. One great way to tell
if a cigar is really fresh or not is by giving it "the pinch
test." Very lightly "pinch" the cigar between your
thumb and forefinger. It should feel firm with a little spring to
it, not hard. If it feels like a piece of dead wood or if it's particularly
soft and spongy in spots, don't buy it.
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What should you do if your cigars become victims of beetles?
The best way to prevent beetles from appearing in the first place is too make sure
the humidity and temperature are kept on the low end. A temp/humidity
level of 62°/67% is perfectly acceptable and will also help prevent
mold. The main cause for beetle infestation is too much heat and/or
humidity. They LOVE it. (It's actually the larvae that feed on the
tobacco.) The only thing that kills them dead is COLD. If you find
that you do have a beetle problem, put all of the cigars from the
infected humidor in a sealed plastic bag and place them in your freezer
for three days. I say "ALL" because if you find one cigar
that's been attacked, you can assume the others may follow. Freezing
the cigars will kill the beetles and their larvae and prevent the
problem from spreading. When you take the cigars out of the freezer,
don't put them right back in the humidor. Put them in the refrigerator
for one day to avoid shock from the temperature change, which could
cause the wrappers to split. Before you replace them in your humidor,
wipe the empty humidor with a clean cloth lightly dampened with distilled
water. DO NOT use any cleaners, bug spray or disinfectant. They'll
just ruin the wood and give your cigars a foul taste. To help prevent
the beetles from returning, purchase a good quality digital hygrometer/thermometer
as the thermometer is very accurate. Also, make sure the room in which
you keep your humidor is not subject to extreme changes in temperature.
Don't place the box in direct sunlight and check your humidifier regularly.
Leave putting bugs in your mouth to contestants on Fear Factor.
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What are those little tan spots I sometimes see on the cigar wrapper?
Don't be alarmed. Also referred to as "sun spots," no one really knows for
sure what causes them. It is generally believed they are caused by
moisture droplets that have marred the leaf after drying, but they
will not affect the taste of the cigar.
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What is the white powdery substance that sometimes appears on the cigar wrapper?
If you see white powdery spots on your cigar that looks like mold,
chances are it's only bloom, which results when the oils in the wrapper
cause the leaf to mature. If this is the case, simply wipe the bloom
off gently with your finger. It's perfectly harmless and a sign that
the leaf is of good, healthy quality, but if you want to prevent it,
keep your temperature and humidity down.
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What is "blue mold" and what do I do if I find it on my cigars?
A deadly mold that manifests itself on the wrapper in the form of
a bluish fungi. If the cigar is infected with blue mold, don't smoke
it; trash it, then check the rest of your cigars - and quickly, too!
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Is 70/70 really the "ideal" temperature/humidity mix?
Although "ideal" temperature/humidity for cigars is supposedly,
70° temperature / 70% humidity, your cigars are actually better
off at a cooler temperature. 62° to 65° is quite acceptable
and will help prevent mold. Mixes of 62°/72%, 63°/68%, even
65°/65% are fine. If you can maintain 70° / 70% with no problems,
more power to you. Just remember that the lower the temp, the higher
the humidity you need to maintain proper moisture content. The higher
the temp, the less humidity. In general, keeping your humidor in a
relatively cool place is a good idea.
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What should I do if I find a "plug" in my cigar?
If your primo is slow on the draw it could be the result of a "plug."
A plug is a blockage that sometimes occurs in the cigar and keeps
it from drawing properly. This could be anything from a piece of leaf
that's packed too tight to a stray stem that got into the bunch before
rolling. Many plugs tend to occur near the "head" (drawing
end) which makes the cigar very hard or even impossible to smoke.
The recommended method for unplugging a cigar is to gently massage
the cigar between your fingers. A persistent smoker can attempt to
massage the location of the knot in order to try to loosen the bunch,
but care should be taken to prevent cracking the wrapper. It helps
if you slightly moisten your fingertips before massaging the cigar.
Most often the problem is that the roller has twisted the filler tobacco
while making the bunch. If this is the case, massaging isn't going
to help. Some smokers will make a desperate attempt to unplug a cigar
by using a toothpick. Not only is it risky - because you can very
easily poke right through the wrapper - it often doesn't work. Unfortunately,
plugs are inevitable if you smoke a lot of cigars. Fortunately, they're
more the exception than the rule.
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Should you remove a cigar's band before lighting, or leave it on?
Etiquette-wise, it is "proper" to remove the cigar band
before you smoke it, but there will always be those who want the other
cigars smoker's in the room to know they're puffing on a Fuente, a
Cohiba or a Montecristo. Removing the band supposedly began in England,
but even if you do subscribe to that tradition, sometimes this is
difficult to do because the label is too tightly glued and you don't
want to peel off any of the cigar's wrapper leaf. In that case, smoke
the cigar about a third down and try again (this gives you a little
time to show-off). Eventually the smoke and heat should cause the
wrapper's glue to loosen, so keep trying until you can remove it easily.
One of the best ways to grasp the "concept" of whether or
not to remove the cigar band is, when you put on an expensive designer
suit, you don't wear the jacket inside-out so people can see the label
do you? The same pretty much goes for cigar bands, but it's not necessary.
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What's the best method for restoring dry cigars?
This is a tricky topic because if your cigars are too dried out there may
be no hope. However, it can't hurt to try, right? That caveat aside,
here goes, but you will need to be patient as this process can take
weeks or even months:
Put the cigars in a humidor or other sealable container with a humidifier
that hasn't been re-charged lately. Let them rest in there for a few
days so the cigars absorb what little humidity remains. Then, only
partially fill the humidifier, letting the cigars rest again for about
a week. Then fully re-charge humidifier. The idea here is to allow
slow absorption of moisture, preventing the cigars from getting too
much humidity too soon. If you shock the cigars by adding too much
moisture at once they can actually burst--the last thing you want
to do with really pricey cigars. This can take several weeks more
than a month. Remember, be patient.
If you have a very large humidor or cabinet-style humidor, start by
placing the cigars a good distance from the humidifying device and
every 5-7 days, move them a little closer to the humidifying device.
This could take up to six weeks, so again, patience is key.
Before you light up, make sure the restored-cigars have a little "spring"
to them like a fresh cigars should be. A dry cigar will only burn
hot and the flavor bitter tasting.
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Why do most cigar boxes have a block of wood in them?
That block of wood is Spanish
cedar and is used primarily as a spacer to keep the cigar rows even.
But it’s also used to help keep the cigars fresh and maintain the
cedar fragrance acquired during aging. Here’s a neat little tip
you can put to use, too: The next time you finish a box of cigars, keep
the little block of cedar wood and put it in your humidor. It will help
your cigars age and keep your box smelling fresh. You can even "re-charge"
the aroma in the block by giving it a light sanding every now and then.
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What are the "classic" cigar styles by length and ring gauge?
- Churchill - 7" x 50
- Double Corona - 6 ¾" x 49
- Londsdale - 6 ½" x 44
- Panatela - 6 ½" x 34
- Toro - 6" x 50
- Corona - 5 ½" x 42
- Robusto - 5" x 50
- Petite Corona - 5" x 38
- Rothschild - 4 ½" x 48
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Should you keep "tubo" cigars tubed while in your humidor?
Like cello, tubes are used primarily to protect the cigar.
If left unhumidified, they will only keep your cigars fresh for about
a week. If you plan on putting them in your humidor, either remove
them entirely from the tube or place them in the box with the cap
off to allow moist air to circulate into the tube. Leave the cap in
the box, too, in case you decide to take the cigar out with you.
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What's the difference between "hand made" and "hand rolled" premiums?
Premiums that are machine-bunched are only rolled by hand, hence the term, "hand rolled," whereas
"handmade" cigars are made entirely by hand.
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What's the best way to deal with a cigar that is burning only on one side?
This type of sideways burn is called "canoeing." It's not uncommon and can be caused by anything from
poor rolling, to the wrapper leaf itself, to breezy conditions assuming you're smoking outdoors.
Rotating the cigar while your smoking it can help in some instances, but if you've got at least an
inch or more of unburned leaf I suggest you try the following repair technique.
- Let the cigar go out completely.
- Burn off the excess leaf with your lighter, place the cigar back in the ashtray,
and let it
burn itself out again.
- Clip the cigar about 1/2 inch at what remains of the foot, which will give you
fresh tobacco to start with again.
- Toast and light the cigar again making sure that you get a good even
light across the foot. Blow on it to be sure all the tobacco is glowing.
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What causes "tunneling?"
Tunneling can be caused by one of two things:
- The outer wrapper is too moist or too oily, and does not burn at the same rate
as the filler and binder, the latter of which is actually selected for its good burning qualities.
- The filler and binder are not rolled tightly enough, and again, because the
binder is designed to burn well, the inner tobaccos take off, leaving the wrapper behind. Or, the filler
and binder are a little dry, causing the inner leaves to burn that much faster.
When you light up, be sure you get a good even burn at the foot working your way from outer ring toward the
center. The leaf at the center, usually Ligero, burns the slowest, and if the cigar really burns nicely, you
should get a nicely formed cone, or "cherry" when you tap off the ash.
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